Some places get under your skin. Paros was that place for me.
The first time I came, I came alone in September 2021. No itinerary, no compromise, just me, a quad bike and an island rated the best in the world. I explored every cove, ate at every harbour, and left knowing I’d be back.
The second time, I brought my husband 5 years later.
There’s something special about returning to a place you love with someone you love even more — watching them fall for it the same way you did, seeing it fresh through their eyes while quietly rediscovering it through your own. Paros didn’t disappoint. If anything, it gave us more.
This is the story of both visits — the hidden beaches, the harbour-front restaurants, the sunset that stopped us in our tracks, as well the Sunset bar where Panos will sort you out with an ouzo and watermelon juice that you won’t forget in a hurry.
Two trips. One island. And honestly, I’m already thinking about a third.
Paros
Rated the best island in the world for the second consecutive year running, and when you’re here it’s easy to understand why. With a year-round population of just 14,000 residents and only 21km long, you can explore the whole island in four to five days — leaving a couple of days to simply unwind on a seven-day trip.
This being my second visit, I wanted to seek out more of the island’s hidden gems while revisiting my favourite spots to remind myself just how magical they were the first time.
Aliki — the most beautiful fishing village
My first solo visit took me too Aliki, a village that wraps around a cove with restaurants right on the water’s edge, the bay dotted with little fishing boats bobbing on the calm surface. It’s one of the most chilled and laid-back places I’ve visited in Greece — but not so laid-back that it has nothing to offer.
The evenings come alive when locals and visitors alike fill the restaurants. The seafood is fresh, the quality consistently good, and the setting is hard to beat.
The village has a cute little bar — the panorama sunset bar where you’ll be looked after by Panos. I’d strongly recommend trying ouzo with watermelon juice. It’s a revelation.
For accommodation in my solo trip, I stayed at the Angelika Seaside Hotel it has the best views of the bay. Basic, yes, but the beds are comfortable, the rooms are clean, and Chris the restaurant manager downstairs will take good care of you. For me, it’s all about that balcony view. Wouldn’t have been for my husband.
Piso Livadi
Along the south-east coast of Paros, around 30 minutes from the airport, Piso Livadi is another stunning fishing village set around a small harbour where fishing boats and chartered yachts bob side by side — the perfect Greek island postcard.
We stayed at the Cavo Piso Livadi for a touch of luxury. Perfectly located in the centre of the village, it’s a beautiful complex of two-storey rooms and apartments set around a main pool. Opting for a room with its own plunge pool and decking feels like a real treat — though with so much to see on the island, we barely used it.
Beautiful Beaches
Aliki has two beaches: Paralia Aliki, right in the centre of the village, where the local old Greek men take their morning swim; and Piso Aliki, a five-minute walk along the harbour — long, sandy, with crystal-clear water.
Two miles further south along the coast is Tripiti 2 Beach, tucked into a secluded cove that you’d easily miss if you didn’t know it was there. I’d recommend using Google Maps to find the turning. Park up, walk five minutes along a small path, and you arrive at a small bay with a rocky outcrop you can swim to and scramble up. This spot was so beautiful I had bring my husband back and it was our favourite beach of the trip.
If you’re after more of a scene, Faragas beach bar is less than a mile away — think Mykonos-bougie vibes. Sun loungers and parasols from €90, with drinks and food brought to you all day against a backdrop of good music. During peak season, beds get booked out early, so either reserve in advance or take your chances as a walk-in. Failing that, the restaurant alone is worth the trip — the steamed mussels served in a crystal bowl are pure decadence.
Further along the coast is The Cliff — with more local character, friendlier staff, and a beautiful little sandy cove. The cocktails are excellent (best margaritas on the island), and the restaurant has a stunning lunchtime view out to sea. The downside is the rows of sun loungers packed in rather tightly, so book early as no one wants to be baby at the back.
A short 15-minute drive from Piso Livadi brings you to two more beaches: Paralia Molos, a long sweeping stretch of sand, and Kalogeros, a smaller and more secluded spot where nudity is accepted. Head left towards the rocks and you can mix the natural clay from the cliff face with the sea water, rub it all over and let the sun do its work. Not entirely sure of the skincare science behind it, but everyone was doing it — so why not.
Not all the best beaches require a drive, either. A ten-minute walk from the centre of Piso Livadi will bring you to Golden Beach, popular with locals at weekends. Sun loungers are €50 or simply spread your towel on the sand and soak up the sun and atmosphere from the beach bar.
Where to Eat
In Piso Livadi you’re spoilt for choice, with five great restaurants along the main promenade — all with lovely harbour and beach views, all serving fresh fish, each with something slightly different to set them apart.
About ten minutes’ walk from Piso Livadi, near Golden Beach, you’ll find a great gyros and souvlaki place — eat in or take away, and very affordable at €4.50.
In Drios, there’s a wonderful seaside restaurant overlooking the crystal-clear water called Kima. I visited here first on my solo trip and thought then I always want to bring back someone special. It was the highlight of our trip. I recommend fish oven baked in thick layers of crusted salt.
The Back to Back bar in Piso Livadi is a real highlight — run by two brothers, Panos and manthos from Paros. Super friendly, great cocktails (try the Back to Back cocktail if you dare), and open until 2am. I never quite made it past midnight.
For a livelier night out, head to Naoussa — the largest town on Paros, where you can party into the small hours and eat at some excellent restaurants. Sigi Ikthios is well known for its fresh fish and large open terrace overlooking the water and fishing boats. Lively and atmospheric. Afterwards, Sante Bar for cocktails is a must — tucked into the hidden backstreets of Naoussa, with candlelit tables around a tree beside a church. Very Greek, in the best possible way. Follow the sound of the beats if you want to keep the night going.
Day Trip to Antiparos
Having the quad means you can also explore the neighbouring island of Antiparos — just a seven-minute ferry ride away from Pounta.
Even less developed than Paros, with only 1,200 residents, Antiparos has beautiful quiet beaches where you’ll barely see another soul. The water is so clear it sparkles like diamonds beneath the sun and deep blue sky. The best beach — and the furthest, down a dirt road — is Faneromeni Beach at the tip of the island: a small sandy strip set between two low rock formations, with shallow crystal-clear water stretching out for 100 metres.
End the day at Sifneiko Café for what I think is the most spectacular sunset you’ll find anywhere in Greece. Both times I’ve been, it’s stopped me in my tracks. They have lovely two-seat benches out front for couples to watch the sun go down over a deep-pan pizza and Greek appetisers. For the full menu, head up to the restaurant once the sun has set.
Next door is a rather try-hard sunset bar that fancies itself as Ibiza — if that’s your vibe, go for it.
Getting Around
The best way to get around, especially if you’re solo or just two people, is by quad — safer than a moped and much more fun for off-road beach adventures. I booked a 450cc online with Loukis Car Rental for €40–€50 a day, ready and waiting when we arrived.
If you fancy a half-day boat trip out to the smaller islands where the sea turns that incredible turquoise, there are plenty of rentals in Aliki. Alternatively, pay €40 and join Rofos and his crew for a four-hour sail that includes drinks, platters of fresh fruit, and a traditional Greek lunch. The boat departs from outside the Angelika Hotel.
When to visit
The best months to come to avoid the crazy influx of tourists and the maximum heat is June or September. The locals say avoid July and August if you can.
How do get there
Both times I flew London to Athens and connect to Paros. However to make it stress free without the worry of missing the connection plan a stop over in Athens on the way out and on the return. Sadly today’s airlines can’t be relied on to keep to a schedule.
Alternative would be london to Mykonos and a ferry to Paros.